MUST DO Mods for your Duramax

What is up you guys thank you for stopping it at the channel I've been noticing in the comments. A lot of you guys are saying you're new to getting a Duramax. You just bought a Duramax kind of wanting to know what I have all done to my truck here. I'Ve already told you what's all done to it, but I'm going to give you today a couple mods that you must do to your Duramax for reliability and performance. Okay, so the very first thing I know most guys out there when you get a Duramax or pretty much any vehicle in general, its intake exhaust, you know just stick with the cheaper mods, stick with the stuff that everybody usually does, but don't cheap out on this, Because I would say your number one first mod that you must do is to get a lift pump. I went with a fast 150 on mine, as you can see here now. What these do is they are making your cp3 work not as hard to pull fuel to the motor, especially if you have a tunes truck it gives you cleaner fuel, it pulls it from the tank easier and sends it to the cp3. So it's insurance on your fuel system and it also could work as a band aid. If you have injectors going bad or something of that nature now I know fast discontinued. The 150 is what I've been seeing, but they do still make a 165 and a 95. If I were you, I would just go for a 165, because there's not much that could go wrong with a bigger pump. If you do a 95 and say you want to do bigger, injectors, dual fuelers, bigger air or a turbo in the future, you you kind of can't. If you just have a 95, you have to get a whole new look from begun. So if I were you, I would go with the fast 165 or air dog or raptor whatever you want these, this rama's $ 611 on ebay. That'S pretty much just standard price. For these, so number one do a little pump. Definitely for your number two mod! It is going to be your EGR delete. I have an SDP EGR delete kit on my truck. I will show you that now now I know the carpets dirty that was from actually at the truck masters house mud hopping in out of the truck. So I have my STP EGR delete and hot side piping and instead of a block off plate, I actually didn't lb7 up pipes, so there is no block off plate back there and another common thing. With the intake pipe thing, you do here, don't cheap out and buy an ebay piping, because if your cheeping out and buying an ebay piping, you are missing this support bracket. That comes off to the side here and what that does. Is that keeps it from wiggling loose? Now I did sdp and I still had issues with my EGR delete after I put this on my bracket that I've just showed you guys it didn't come with a longer bolt to bolt into the thermostat housing, so the bolts. Actually, it was only caught on by like two or three threads. I drove it for, like two days, got is dying, odor whatever and I was actually driving out to breakfast with my buddy and it stripped the threads out and popped. The intake elbow out of the Y bridge because, as you know, these are stuck to piece Y bridges. I don't know if you can see in there is somewhat down here. So this is your intake elbow and then your Y bridge is under there. You can't really see where it bolts in or just couples in, but I had to go to ace and get a longer bolt here for this bracket to bolt all the way down into the housing, so it doesn't come loose and so with that coming loose, I Put it back together, I got new o-rings or whatever got it all set in there and I'm still hearing like a whining noise. Almost like it's supercharged as dumb as it sounds, you can tell when your Y bridge is going bad, because I hear that noise like a little bit of air coming through the motor when I get on the throttle, hard open around ten pounds of boost ish. So I know I'm gon na be in market for a Y bridge, so that's gon na be also what you have to do. If you do an EGR delete it, don't cheap out and do an eBay intake piece on it, go and get a reputable name brand with a solid support bracket on the side or even two. So my Y bridge is bad. The air I'm hearing is definitely coming from the library's where that couples. So if you're doing an EGR delete kit, I understand money is tight, but if you have the extra money laying around - and you want to do it right - not have these issues that I'm having definitely do a Y bridge HSP makes a nice one-piece sdp makes a One and a two piece I believe I had it ordered from SDP all the parts that I ordered and the guy actually called me. I forgot what his name was. He might be the owner or CEO or whatever, and she saw my order and he asked me why I had a Y bridge in there. It was like 900, something bucks and I told him you know I had a buddy because I was new to Durham X's. At the time I had a buddy who told me that I'm definitely gon na need the Y bridge and he told me no don't do the Y bridge unless you're looking for over 800 horsepower. But so I listened to him. I cancelled the Y bridge order on there and just threw this on and now I'm in need of a Y bridge. So, like I said, I mean the SDP, kid isn't bad and I'm not gon na bash SDP because of what they told me. But I'm definitely a little bit mad that they told me. I didn't need it, and now I do so. If you're doing it definitely do a Y bridge. This is my old EGR intake off of the trunk. It'S actually been sitting on the scrap pile over there for a while. Now, because you know it's junk, and this is why you get your EGR all of this focus here, its carbon and soot buildup inside of it and that's just recycling back into your motor there's. Nothing you can do about it. You have to delete it, so you do not want that going back through your to keep the truck happy and to keep it running good, definitely throw that in the garbage and do a delete on it and number three here is going to be your PCV reroute. Now I know it comes usually standard. You do a PCV three off when you do your EGR delete it, which I definitely recommend doing. It'S super easy. I just ordered the kit from SDP when I got my EGR delete and all that and what it does. As you can see here, this is usually where the PCB comes from your turbo mouthpiece. This is the reroute I did. It comes out of that side of the motor and that side there and what your PCV is doing is it's taking your crankcase gases and it's putting it back into the intake system of your truck, and so when I bought my Duramax, I was looking at the Passenger side wheel well liner, and there was like a residue all over it, so I crawled under there and looked, and there was oil coming out of the intercooler piping down there. I googled it and it said it's PCV issue and it's a residue build-up of oil that comes down and because it's getting pushed back into your intake system, it'll build up at that lowest point there and cause like a not really a full-fledged oil. But like a watery oil mix and that was leaking and so to add on to all this I would say, exhaust and a down pipe is next. I have a three-inch mbrp down pipe on my truck with a 5-inch exhaust. It'S not really a necessity. Mod like it's, not something you have to do to prolong the life of your truck, but it will drop your eg T's and it'll. Give it the classic Duramax sound that everybody likes and there's arguments with a four inch or a five inch straight pipe or turbo. Back exhaust system, I did a five inch, a lot of guys will say: you're, not gon na see anything out of a five inch until you hit over 800 horsepower, which I agree with, but I don't see much of a tone difference in a four to five Inch so I just throw five inch on it. Tie rods are coming next. Everybody knows that Duramax has come with garbage stock tie rods, they're the size of pencil and they snap, especially if you trying to launch this but they'll snap in any four-wheel-drive situation, pretty much. If you putting down any extra power to the ground, so I went ahead and I put kryptonite tie rods up as you can see there. Those are the kryptonite tie rods. I installed, they were actually pretty easy to install. But yes, I know my angles aren't the best, so I'm not launching the truck it's a daily driver, not a race truck. I wanted bigger tire rods, so if somebody is stuck or something of that nature, I can put a little bit of torque to the ground to pull them out without having to worry about my tie, rod snapping while I'm Way back in the woods or something, and Then I can't drive it back out, so those are all of the necessary mods that you should do to your Duramax. I'M I'm not gon na get into tuning. I can do a separate video on tuning. I have idaho Rob Tunes. It all depends on who you have tuned your truck. Obviously EFI live is the only route to go on these. You don't want to settle for some banks, tuner or something of that nature. So thank you for watching comment and subscribe and, like this video tell me what you guys want to see like I said, I'm always open to new ideas, video and new stuff. So if you guys have any ideas you have stuff, you want to see at my truck any ideas you want me to post make sure you tell me leave it in the comments and thank you for all the subscribers I've gotten lately. I again I've started this channel, probably a week week and a half ago, I'm already up to almost 400 subscribers. So that's awesome so keep doing what you guys are doing and I will keep releasing content.